Washington state wonder

When people learn I am a wine enthusiast, the most frequent question they ask is, “If you could only drink one wine for the rest of your life, what would it be?”

I customarily reject the proposition outright on the grounds that it is equally preposterous and terrifying.

However innocent the interrogation, it always seems to follow a similar path: “If you had to choose, would it be red or white?” I can’t even wrap my brain around the notion. And then there’s: “What if you could only drink wines from one vineyard or winery?”

Until recently, my answer to this last question would have been as dismissive as my response to all the others. But following a recent trip to the Pacific Northwest, I can at last capitulate and answer: Chateau Ste. Michelle. Founded in 1934 in Washington state’s Columbia Valley, the estate produces an almost incomparable amount of classic European-style of wines.

“Good wines make themselves,” explains head winemaker Bob Bertheau. To understand the humility and humor of his statement, you have to consider that he oversees the production of nearly 50 diverse wines that comprise the 1.7 million cases (20 million bottles) the Chateau releases annually. “I have a deputy who is in charge of all the reds and another who is in charge of all the whites. It’s like I’m the architect and they are the general contractors.”

Quality and quantity are generally regarded as mutually exclusive when it comes to wine. Consistent with the pioneer spirit of the rural West, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s extensive product line belies that conventional wisdom. The estate makes a wide range of traditional varietals — Cabernets, Chardonnays, Syrahs, Merlots, Gewurztraminers and Sauvignon Blancs — for every occasion, palate and price point, from $10 to $200.

But it is the Riesling grape that puts Chateau Ste. Michelle on the worldwide wine map. The winery was catapulted into the national spotlight when its 1972 Johannisberg Riesling won a now-famous blind tasting sponsored by the Los Angeles Times. It is now the leading global producer of the grape, crafting 600,000 cases a year. During the 12-month period ending last month, Riesling was the fastest-growing white varietal and second fastest-growing of all varietals, following the Pinot Noir. Sales of Riesling have increased 54 percent during the past three years and Chateau Ste. Michelle’s eight diverse interpretations are the best-selling in the U.S., collectively claiming a 30 percent share of the market.

“One of the best things about Riesling is that it tends to be low in alcohol, yet high in character, aromatics and flavor,” says Bertheau. “Its fruitiness and crisp acidity makes it wonderful with food, especially spicy cuisines. And there is no other grape variety in the world that can be made in so many different styles, from bone dry to decadently sweet and everything in between.”

Although dynamic when enjoyed by themselves, the food-friendly character of the estate’s wines makes it a darling among chefs and sommeliers. “They are all very well-made. At every level, they are reliable and always a good value,” explains J. Curtis Allred, manager and sommelier of PS-7’s restaurant in Washington’s Penn Quarter and former wine director at Capital Grille. “If you order a $35 steak, you don’t always need to spend $100 to get a decent bottle to go with it. The Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Merlot [approx $45 restaurant price] was the best-selling Merlot during my tenure at Capital Grille,” according to Allred. “It’s nice to see Washington state getting the recognition it deserves.”

Washington state is the second-largest wine-producing region in the country, behind California. “Not too long ago, retailers put us in the novelty wine section, next to bottles from Hawaii,” recalls Ted Baseler, president of the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. “Our commitment to quality, and the public’s steadily increasing wine knowledge, has allowed us to transcend.”

Selecting only a few of their wines to recommend is a difficult task given their variety and consistent quality. The following two selections are a good introduction to the one estate’s wine you may only want to drink again. But one forever? I won’t choose.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling, $12 — Consistent juicy peach, ripe pear and melon, with subtle mineral notes, perfect for summer sipping.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon, $16 — A big, bold wine that exudes sweet blackberry pie and vanilla aromas and flavors with loads of complexity. Try it with any hearty shish kabob or grilled meat.

Derek LaVallee is vice president, U.S. Public Affairs Practice at Waggener Edstrom Worldwide and a certified wine buff. He can be reached at dereklavallee@hotmail.com.