Around the wine world

This month marks the five-year anniversary of this column. The occasion reminds me how much the world changed in that relatively short amount of time. Consider that in March 2006, then-Sen. Barack Obama (D-Ill.) was several months away from announcing his presidential candidacy and former New York Mayor Rudy Giuliani was ahead in the early polls to be the Republican nominee.

And yet, the world of wine has remained comparatively constant. There are never seismic shifts that revolutionize how wine is made or enjoyed. A quick review of this column’s topics reveals a running commentary on subtle fashions of the moment.

{mosads}I am relieved to see through these years my analysis has been proven right a few times, and I easily admit I’ve misjudged some things, too.

For example, my first column was about the imminent rise in popularity of Pinot Noir (and the downfall of Merlot) caused by the movie “Sideways.” Pinot Noirs, traditionally venerated only by serious wine aficionados because of their high price tags and subtle notes, are now being produced in great numbers and at lower costs in response to public demand. The 2008 vintage of Oregon Pinots, just now being released, is one of the best ever. When you find one that speaks to you, buy a case or two. You’ll thank me in five years.

Back in 2008 I was captivated by Gruner Vetliner (GV), the complex white grape grown primarily in Austria. At that time, many in the wine community — myself included — were tired of countless Chardonnays that were either far too oaky or indistinguishably bland. In an effort to share my enthusiasm for the GV, a grape that is both sweet and savory, I might have exaggerated its virtues. The title of that column was “A wine that enhances everything, even eggs benedict.” That statement was based more on optimism than experience. In fact, GVs do not enhance everything, my reputation now included.

I confess I did not anticipate the recent and broad affection for Argentine Malbecs. I’ve only mentioned Malbecs once in this column, in the context of increasing your wine IQ by trying new things. Malbecs have been thriving in vineyards high in the Andes, at their best expressing bold yet balanced flavors of dark berry, chocolate and spice. I’m guessing many former Merlot drinkers have migrated to Malbec. In my defense, I did write in 2006 to “buy it before its price catches up to its quality.” It’s still not too late.

Finally, there is one consistent phenomenon that I find myself addressing again and again: the habit of buying a wine (or not) because of its label. Selecting a wine based solely on the aesthetics of its packaging is a folly. What other products do we choose based on nothing but hope and whimsy? And I’m talking about something we ingest!
Just this week a good friend of mine told me she bought a wine called Running with Scissors because she liked a book and movie of the same name. Before I could speak, and sensing my dismay, she added, “I liked the label, too.”

We are fortunate to live in a time when winemaking is proliferating, creating the rare convergence of diverse selection, increased quality and fair pricing.

Just a modest amount of research will eliminate guesswork and lead to more gratifying sensory experiences.

I hope that’s what I’ve been able to provide these past five years.

Derek M. LaVallee, certified wine buff and director of public relations and public affairs at Kemp Goldberg Partners, can be reached at dereklavallee@hotmail.com.