A break from chardonnay

A break from chardonnayRecently, I received a phone message from a friend seeking advice. “I’m on my way to stock up on white wine for the spring,” my friend said. “What should I buy? Oh, and please, no chardonnays — I’m so tired of them.”

 Truth be told, I was a tad offended. The very purpose of this column (of which she claims to be a devotee) is to spare readers the malady of palate fatigue. A quick review of the archive reveals my past recommendations have spanned the white wine continuum, including viogniers, semillons, pinot gris, rieslings, chenin blancs, gruner vetliners, gewurztraminers and more.

 {mosads}My friend’s short-term memory problems aside, I know she is representative of a restless movement searching for new inspiration. In wine circles they are known as members of the ABC (“Anything But Chardonnay”) Society.

 My inner wine geek could fill pages in passionate defense of chardonnay, without which we would not know austere French Burgundies, communicative California expressions and champagne and sparkling wines (or blanc de blancs) from both of those regions. But I can also relate to the desire for something new.

 In that spirit, I picked up a few whites I knew little about and had never tried. After just a few sips of one of them, I was reminded of what the music critic Jon Landau wrote after seeing a then-unknown band play in 1974: “I saw rock ‘n’ roll’s future, and its name is Bruce Springsteen.”

I tasted my white-wine future, and its name is Verdelho.

 Verdelho (pronounced vehr-DEHL-yoh) is a green grape native to Portugal and the Portuguese island of Madeira. For centuries its use has been limited mostly to making Madeira and white port — both sweet, fortified dessert wines. As a result, the grape’s individual characteristics have been masked by blended spirits and residual sugars.

On the other side of the world, winemakers in Australia have been experimenting with the Verdelho grape, using modern techniques to tease out a surprising personality. The result is an aromatic wine that is both crisp and lush. It can be enjoyed by itself as a simple summer aperitif, and it is a dexterous dancing partner to a wide range of lighter fare. It has become my new favorite brunch wine.

 Try the 2009 Hope Estate Hunter Valley Verdelho ($12). This wine presents a depth of fresh herbs with tropical fruit and floral notes. The palate is both awakened and soothed by creamy lychee flavors followed by a clean and lengthy lime ending.

 Derek M. LaVallee, director of public relations services at KG Partners and a certified wine buff, can be reached at dereklavallee@hotmail.com.